The version is popular that the New Year's dish appeared in 1918, and this or that social group corresponded to its ingredients. We checked how reliable this story is.
Often, publications about the origin of the famous salad contain such a story. At the end of 1918, the merchant Anastas Bogomilov, who owned the taverns in Moscow and Tver, decided to develop a new dish to reconcile visitors to his institutions. Conflicts between them constantly flashed either on political grounds, or simply because of excessive libations. The cook Aristarchus Prokoptsev came up with a symbolic salad: herring in it was represented by the proletariat, potatoes - peasants, beets - Bolsheviks, and mayonnaise was designed to remind of the bourgeoisie. The name was also difficult: supposedly a fur coat is actually an abbreviation, which is deciphered as "chauvinism and decline - boycott and anathema."
This version is mentioned by the authors of notes on the TV channel website NTV, in the newspaper "New Izvestia" and on the portal "Culture.rf". It is popular on social networks - numerous posts can be found in "VKontakte" And on Facebook, V "Yandex.Zen", Twitter, Instagram, Pikabu And Livejournal.
Judging by the results of the search results, the history of more than a hundred years ago for the first time became known not so long ago. Its earliest mention that we managed to detect dates from 2009 - then one of the users of Wikipedia Offered Add a legend to an article about the salad. However, the colleagues appreciated the proposed information as “very controversial”, reproached the proposal to the absence of references to reliable sources and suggested that “most likely, someone really wanted to push their version in order to somehow become famous.”
Despite such doubts, a beautiful legend quickly became popular. Already in 2011, publication with a retelling of history appearedFor example, on the website Tvernews. December 31, 2013 "Legend" mentioned In the plot of Channel One, doubting, however, in its reliability.
The recipe, allegedly invented shortly after the revolution, for some reason was ignored by the authors of many Soviet culinary books. The herring under the fur coat Do not mention The compilers of the “Books on Tasty and Healthy Food”-neither in the first edition of 1939, nor in the subsequent 1947 and 1952. By words The historian of cooking Pavel Syutkin, the recipe for this salad is not found at all in such publications until the 1980s. There are other grades of the “age” of the recipe - it could appear in 1960s or 1970s. Be that as it may, it is strange that the dish was allegedly invented in 1918 and became a popular dish for many decades disappeared from sight. It is also significant that neither Anastas Bogomilov nor Aristarchus Prokoptsev are mentioned in sources, except in connection with the famous salad.
Apparently, the recipe familiar to the modern New Year's table appeared already in the second half of the 20th century as a result of processing dishes invented earlier. Like in North European, and in domestic Cooking was popular salads, similar to a herring under a fur coat, but with a vinaigrette vinegar dressing. Probably over time it was replaced by mayonnaise.
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